After an extremely nice breakfast, including "make your own waffles", and a leisurely morning in the hotel, we went in search of a packed lunch in Sundsvall. We had a long journey ahead, crossing the Swedish and Norwegian mountains on stopping trains, so we didn’t expect any refreshments to be available onboard (in fact, there were!). An internet search revealed a bakery cum cafe just round the corner of an unpromising street en route to the station and what a fantastic bakery it was! The cakes were to die for, and the shop was packed with locals coming in and taking away boxes of these amazing confections, many had obviously been pre-ordered for the weekend. The cafe was a bit of an education as you ordered your coffees at the counter and the waitress put a cafetiere per person into a machine which dispensed a measure of coffee and hot water, and then you pointed out which of the cakes you wanted. I was still full of waffle (what’s new?) so decided to abstain and just have coffee and order a cake for the packed lunch. We were given the cafetieres and sat down, a bit puzzled as to what we were supposed to drink out of, but learning from the regulars, we helped ourselves to crockery, spoons, sugar etc from a dresser at the end of the room.
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Stenstans Bageri in Sundsvall |
We went back and ordered sandwiches and drinks, and I chose my cake for the journey and we made our way down to the station to catch the 2.08 train to Storlien, 2 kms short of the Swedish/Norwegian border, for an amazing 4 hour journey through pine forests, passing waterfalls, frozen rivers and lakes, and steadily climbing.
By the time we got to Storlien, the ground was covered in snow and it was pretty cold.
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Snow in Stolen |
Fortunately, the train to take us to Trondheim, the last train of our fantastic trip, was already in the station
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Boarding the last train of our trip |
and soon we crossed the border and started to descend into a different landscape with crystal clear light and very distinct colours. We even passed through Hell, but if this is Hell then bring it on!
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The railway station at Hell |
Twenty minutes or so before we were due to arrive in Trondheim, the train went into a long tunnel and we came out with the majestic, so blue, Trondheim fjord on our right
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The Trondheim fjord |
and were soon off the train and in our treat hotel, the Scandic Nidelven, which overlooked one of the channels flowing into the fjord, in a brilliant setting.
Just a side note, I've betrayed our age by a few references to Monty Python, and this cropped up again as every time I thought or said 'fjord" it would bring back John Cleese bewailing his dead parrot, "Pining for the fjords, is he?"
If we thought Denmark and Sweden were expensive, well we hadn’t been to Norway, and if we thought it was about time to start getting ready for home and curbing our alcohol intake, then this was the way to do it, paying £20 for a glass of wine and a large beer. There was a strike of ancillary staff across all the hotels in Trondheim over the weekend, so there was a limited menu and we ended up with a burger for my husband and a fish soup for me, again not exactly cheap.
One of the reasons we had chosen this hotel was because for many years it has been voted top for breakfast in all of Norway, and it didn’t disappoint. It was literally overwhelming; there was such a massive range of choice and everything was of high quality from the fantastic homemade jams and breads to salmon eight different ways to pancakes made to order, including gluten free options.
Our exploration of the ancient city of Trondheim started after breakfast in bright sunshine and temperatures of about 12 degrees, a long way up from the seasonal average of 4 degrees, and my thermals got thrown back into the holdall. Trondheim is the third largest city in Norway, after Oslo and Bergen, and was the ancient capital. All Norwegian royalty are crowned in the Nidaros Cathedral at Trondheim, so we made that ancient building our first port of call. It is a beautiful, very dignified, cathedral, built of the local blue-grey stone which I found very attractive. The most striking thing inside was the stained glass, including a gorgeous blue and pink rose window.
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Exterior view of rose window |
This was one of the very few places we went to where photography was totally forbidden, although some people were taking pictures of the rose window until one of the priests came and asked them to stop. The ticket price also included a chance to see the Norwegian crown jewels and associated regalia, so we had a look at those while we were there.
The city square was host to a farmers market, selling fabulous fish, meat, cheeses, breads, cakes, honey and jams, but unfortunately we were too full to get beyond the odd tasting morsel.
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Trondheim farmers market |
My favourite stall was selling pure wool yarn in a lovely range of colours.
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Market stall selling wool |
We found a number of shops specialising in knitting and other crafts, and they were all very busy, reflecting the popularity of traditional crafts - a way to keep busy and warm in the cold winter evenings maybe?
Our Rough Guide had picked out the Trondheim Micro-Brewery as worth a visit, and we found it fairly easily as Trondheim is a small city. It’s a pleasant hostelry where everything looks fresh and new.
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Trondheim Micro-brewery |
We decided to share a Tasting Tray, which was a tray with 10 x 0.1 litre samples of each of their beers, which ranged from a light lager to a thick black ale and not all of which I found palatable; however, between the two of us we managed to finish them.
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A litre of craft ales |
A walk along the Esplanade looking out across the fjord seemed like a good way of blowing away the cobwebs
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Trondheim Esplanade |
and brought us eventually to Rockheim, the Museum of Norwegian Rock, an intriguing prospect which drew us in for a couple of hours learning about Norwegian music from the 1950’s to the present day. I must admit my previous knowledge extended no further than A-ha (rock music?). The museum was fun though, interactive and quirky, and the enthusiastic staff were always keen to help us to use the equipment and to tell us about the music. Who knew that a genre of particularly loud and screechy rock music called Black Metal originated in Norway? It has gone worldwide and many fans around the world are learning the Norwegian language specifically so they can fully engage with this music. An acquired taste, I think.
We also got to play some real instruments - electric guitars, keyboards and drums, so that was fun.
We had planned that for the last night of our trip we would have a nice dinner in the hotel and a few drinks in the bar. However, the hotel was absolutely packed, the menu was still restricted and we decided to go out, but quite a few restaurants were affected by the strike. We found a pub which served nice hearty food but the choice was narrow and the service was very quick so we soon found ourselves back at the hotel in a busy, overcrowded bar. We didn’t stay there long, but went back to our room and after scanning the tv channels found an American WW2 B-movie with Norwegian sub-titles. This matched up well with what we normally do on Saturday nights at home when we don’t go out, which is to watch Scandinavian crime or thriller serials on BBC 4 with English sub-titles. The film didn't match up with these, and I managed to wake myself up a couple of times with my snoring!
We reprised the heavenly breakfast on our last day and passed the time gently before catching the Flybussen to the airport and taking off for Gatwick.
Trondheim: distinguished and ancient
We stayed at the Scandic Nidelven, which we'd booked as a treat for our last stop, to experience the breakfasts and to be somewhere warm and comfortable if it was really cold (which it wasn't). I would certainly like to stay there again, just so I could try some of the 75% of the breakfast content I didn't get to.